Jolly Pumpkin Oro de Calabaza

 

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Oro de Calabaza is an oddity in the craft beer world to say the least. Brewed by Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales in Dexter, Michigan, Oro de Calabaza is an 8% ABV golden ale aged in French oak brewed in a traditional Biere de Garde style. Translated from Spanish “oro” is for gold and “calabaza” is in reference to gourds including pumpkins.

Biere de Garde is a style of ale originating in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais region of France. In many ways the style is similar to the Saison of Belgium in that they both use a Farmhouse style yeast and are brewed traditionally in the winter. Biere de Garde translates roughly in French to “beer for keeping” and is controlled by a appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) meaning that only beers produced in Nord-Pas-de-Calais region  are allowed to use the Biere de Garde name. This is similar to Champagne is only produced in the Champagne region and others are just sparkling white wines.

Oro de Calabaza pours out a marvelous out a bright and hazy golden yellow with a creamy fluffed up pure white head. A slow cascade of bubbles appear in the body as the head dissipates slowly into a thin cap. Taking the first sniff of the glass I immediately sense a mild funk and barnyard aroma. Woody, zesty with lemon and citrus esters, beautiful fruity notes and earthen funk notes with light toasted bread malts. Diving in further I sense a mild brettanomyces bouquet with a plethora of bursting fruits; lemon, white grapes, apples, pears and some black pepper. Oro has hands down one of the most unique and enticing aromas. Slowly taking the first sip, a sweet bready and light caramel malt forms in the middle with fruity notes. Apple and pears with a prominent white grape flavour come along with the funky brett and earthen barnyard flavours. Zesty lemon esters and mild hop bitterness on the finish with a bit of astringent dryness on the finish. Not even a single bit of evidence of this being an 8% brew on the finish as funk and fruity brettanomyces notes fill the aftertaste.

This is probably the most creative style of beer I’ve ever encountered and Jolly Pumpkin truly hit it out of the park with Oro de Calabaza. Complex, well balanced, tart and dry, fruity and funky….the list goes on and on. I could imagine this brew to be quite a handful for the more novice beer drinkers due to the high acidity. Overall, just an incredible beer.

Grade: 93/100      Price: $11.29 

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