This past week Alberta beer lovers have yet another BC brewer extending their distribution into our province. Victoria brewer Category 12 was founded by Michael Kuzyk who holds a PhD in microbiology and biochemistry from the University of Victoria. Disruption Black IPA is a 6.7% ale brewed with Simcoe, Cascade and Columbus hops that won Best American Black Ale at the Canadian Brewing Awards. In addition to the hop bill Disruption is malted with carafa and munich malts.
Pouring out a dark and murky burgundian brown with an opaque body and light carbonation the head is standout with a fluffy, marshmallow esque consistency. Plenty of lacing rings form and the head itself sustains for quite some time. The appearance by first glance is that of a nicely roasted and well hopped brew. The nose is heavy with pine and citrus hops, lighter floral and spice notes with a trademark cascade overtone. The malt is more subtle and reserved on the nose but for a light cocoa and toffee malt. A nice aroma overall with the hops at the forefront. Taking my first sip a beautiful chocolate and nut accented roasted malt accompanies the caramel and toffee notes in the mid palate. The malt is heavy but doesn’t seem to occupy the profile too much with the hops making a similarly weighty appearance. Light pine needle and heavy grapefruit citrus notes fill the back end with light grassy and spiced hop notes more subtle. A common problem for me with this style is balance. Often Black IPA’s seem to tip the scale on either the roasted malt or the hop side. This is not the case here with both the malts and the hops showcasing well in a best of both worlds situation. The malts are up front and heavy without destroying the pine and citrus hops. The finish is bitter and lingers on heavily without acting cloying and taking away from the roasted malts. Overall a very good Black IPA that hopefully foreshadows the things to come from Category 12 Brewing.
One of the newest BC brewers to begin exporting to their Eastern neighbours is New Westminster’s Steel & Oak. The first beer to hit shelves is their 5.4% Smoked Hefeweizen a rarely seen fusion style that blends two different German brewing styles. Smoked beers originate in the small Bavarian town of Bamberg where malt is smoked over beechwood fire before being added to the brew. Hefeweizens are wheat beers that also originated in Germany and are characterized by a profile of banana, clove, coriander and lemon. I’ve only ever had one other smoked hefeweizen which was from Portland’s Gigantic Brewing. From what I remember I enjoyed the beer because it took a fairly average wheat beer and turned the profile on its head. Lets get to drinking this Steel & Oak brew.
Pouring out a spritzy golden straw in the body with a heavy amount of carbonation streaming upwards in the glass. The head is dense, thick and fluffy on top with a dulled off white colour. A beautiful appearance overall with the heavy carbonation carrying on for some time. At first glance the aroma is pungent with smoke but this soon blows off leaving a more mild and aligned smoke nose that blends well with the hefeweizen components. Light straw and hay malt with a bit of lemon and banana with no spice on the nose. A bit sweet up front with a grainy malt profile, light wheat malts add crispness to the finish while the smoke is mild but throughout. The banana and a light pinch of clove are delightful but too subtle and get lost in the noise of smoke and malt. On the finish a lingering mild smoke and light bitterness clash with a refreshing crispness. Overall a nice effort but I would have liked to see a more insightful combination of hefeweizen yeast and smoke with a heavier punch and more yeast complexity. Regardless a very nice and easy sipping smoked brew.
Along with the changing weather and shorter days falls heralds the release of fresh and wet hopped beers. For most hop heads these seasonal release beers are some of the most sought after and acclaimed brews. Burnaby BC’s Dageraad Brewing is a small artisinal company that produces Belgian inspired brews on Canada’s west coast. Named after Dageraadplaats a square in Antwerp that translates to Daybreak Square, Dageraad Brewing has quickly become one of my favourite Canadian brewers. Most of their beers have the yeast at the forefront of the flavour profile with the resulting esters showcasing the myriad of Belgian beer flavours. Since entering the Alberta market nearly a year ago Dageraad has released 5 beers including their flagship Blonde that this beer has been based off.
Pouring into the glass there is a noticable effervescent spritz as the head forms into a dense and bulky pure white foam. Solid carbonation in the glass and as the head simmers a lot of lacing rings stick to the glass. The body is a hazy yellow straw with some larger yeast sediment floating around. At first glance this is a beautiful beer by appearance alone but lets dive into the aroma and flavour. The nose is heavy with citrus zest and light earthy notes, minor spice notes come through with a pinch of coriander and black pepper. A nicely done and well balanced aroma with lemon peel and a light grainy malt balancing well. The flavour is quite floral with light perfumy notes and a bunch of lemon zest, earthy straw and grainy malts balance the hops and yeast well. More spice in the flavour profile than the nose alluded too with light cardamom and nutmeg notes joining the pepper and coriander. The hops are lighter then expected but balance the profile well. The finish is creamy and mildly bitter with a lingering spice and lemon zest note. As the beer warms I notice more fruity notes of pear and apple, light banana and a an overall harmonious flavour. This is an example of where a wet hopped beer is made is good balance where as most offerings tilt the scale to the hoppy side. Overall, a very nice offering from Dageraad.
© L. Patrick Smith III
A few years back Calgary’s own Wild Rose brewery took a huge step in our little microcosm of beer and made a gose. Gose is a top fermenting German style of beer that is typically moderately sour and salty either from the water sources or by the addition of salt. The style has recently undergone a Renaissance in North American with many craft brewers rebooting the unique style. When Wild Rose made Gose Rider, I honestly had only heard bits and pieces about the style and was eager to research, drink and learn more. In addition to salt, coriander is often added for flavour to this beer style that averages between 4 and 5 percent alcohol. As such, most Gose do not comply with the Bavarian Purity Law of 1516 or the Reinheitsgebot. Wild Rose decided to take the Gose Rider (which I found delicious in its first iteration) and age it for 18 months in barrels having previously contained red wine. I should mention that I previously reviewed the un-aged Wild Rose Gose Rider here and gave it a resounding 90/100 rating (https://albertabeersmith.wordpress.com/2013/07/04/wild-rose-gose-rider/) This Barrel Aged Gose Rider was limited to only 99 cases (1188 bottles) and clocks in at an uber-sessionable 4.5% ABV. Enough of the technical, let the adjectives fly and lets get down to the business at hand.
The beer pours a surprisingly dark coppery straw colour with a largely evident effect of the barrel in the body colour alone. The head is a thick but porous off white with little carbonation evident by appearance. The nose is rich and complex at first look with a tons of woody oak notes and tart lemon aromatics. A delightful aroma on its own with the heavy, rich and earthy wood notes vying for attentions from the fresh, fruity citrus notes. The first sip is zingy with a lemon tartness at first. As the beer warms a mild dark fruit note replaces the tartness that I had become accustomed to. The oak is extremely complex and almost takes over the entire flavour profile. The underlying gose base regains some form by adding a tart sourness throughout the profile. The sourness is reserved but quietly present enough to give balance. This is a difficult beer to put into words as I’ve never had anything quite like it. Wooden, mild earthy and dark fruit notes are sweeter and obviously accentuate the barrels impact. This is one of those beers that I could smell and taste for hours and still have words to describe it so lets end it short. This is one of the most intriguing and convoluted brews made in Alberta and I hope to see more like it. For Wild Rose to take on a Gose in the first place was mighty ambitious but this is another level entirely. I have a lot of respect for them to create this beer and I think this rivals as one of the best craft brews in Alberta.
To properly tell the story behind my enjoyment of this brew a short story is in order. The year was 2007 and craft beer wasn’t really a thing in Alberta. We got a fair amount of British, German and Belgian beers but none of the Canadian or American micro brews we are now accustomed to. One of the first American craft breweries to appear on beer shelves in Alberta was Fort Bragg, California’s North Coast Brewing. In many ways this was one of my gateway breweries as their more unique and exotic beer styles got me into crazier and craftier beer. Nowadays with the beer market flooded to point of near hyper-saturation I often find myself reminiscing about some of those first extreme beers that got me started with this hobby. One of those was North Coast’s Old Rasputin an Imperial Stout that had no rival in 2007. Before the days of extreme beer taxation a 4 pack of that 10% elixir cost around $10 before tax and deposit. Le Merle Saison was another that got me excited and interested in Belgian style brews. Now its 7 or 8 years later and for the first time since 2008 Le Merle Saison is appearing on craft beer shelves again. So to my giddy excitement I took home a 4 pack now costing around $16 before tax and deposit.
Le Merle pours out an effervescent coppery gold colour with a steady carbonation stream. The head is a hue of creamy off white with a thick but porous foam. The head subsides slowly leaving a surprising and welcome amount of lacing. The nose is at first quite spicy with loads of coriander and a more subtle cracked black pepper note. A little bit of florality with a citrus zest ester note. Light crisp and toasted malts, mild caramel sweetness up front with zesty citrus notes. Coriander is present throughout the profile with a light orange pith note. The malt profile is light enough to allow the spice and ester notes to shine, a mild bready note gives good balance. Earthy saison yeast notes open up as the beer warms with delightful fruity pear and mango notes complement the spice. The finish is mildly bitter, crisp and lingers with coriander and pepper spice notes. Effervescent and steady carbonation is on cue stylistically and gives a nice refreshing quality.
One of Alberta’s newest brewers is Fort Saskatchewan’s Two Sergeants Brewing who released their first beer in early 2015. I previously wrote a glowing review of the intensely bitter Bangalore Torpedo IPA and now upon the release of their second brew I hope to do the same for it. Passion d’Ale is a Belgian Wit named by pun after the Third Battle of Ypres, also known as Passchendaele. Passion d’Ale is brewed to 5.2% ABV with a splash of blood orange juice. In brewing this beer Two Sergeants worked in collaboration with Escarpment yeast to create a one of a kind wit.
Pours an insanely hazy, cloudy straw yellow in the body with a thick tower of puffy off white head. A light stream of carbonation in the body seems low for the cloudiness and the style. Some splotchy lacing marks are left on the glass as the head subsides slowly. The aroma is grainy, bready and floral with a heavy earthy and floral hop leaf aroma. A heavy coriander and black pepper spice coagulates with a wet cardboard and musty ester note. Overtly floral and earthy with a lingering cardboard malt note. Bitterness is moderate and comes mostly from the blood orange juice and citrus zest notes. The wheat malt falls a bit flat amidst the esters and wet cardboard note that pervades the flavour profile. This is a very unique and complex witbier that falls somewhat outside the confines of the style. Packed with spice, fruity esters and musty yeast notes that creates an interesting beer.
One of the hot craft beer styles this summer that has been making many appearances as seasonal releases is the Saison IPA. An evolution on a white IPA, this style involves making an IPA that is fermented with a strain of yeast normally used in Saisons. Phillip’s brewing in Victoria, BC is one of Canada’s most prolific craft breweries an specializes in Cascade heavy IPA styles. For a long time I found Phillips beers to be the same but recently rekindled my interest in them. Barnstormer Saison IPA clocks in at 7.2% and is has a small limited run in BC and Alberta craft beer stores.
Pouring out a bright, hazy coppery straw colour with a thick, puffy pure white head that sustains and leaves a bunch of sticky lacing blotches on the glass. The aroma is a nice hybrid of citrus heavy hops and floral, spice forward ester notes. Light lemon rind, grapefruit, wet grass and a light floral note from the saison yeast up front. A pinch of coriander and black pepper cracked on top are less apparent and subtle. The aroma is a nice middle of the road balance between the IPA and saison counterparts. A light toasted bread malt, a bit of honey sweetness and light grassy notes up front. Too much of a malt base would counteract the saison ester notes that soon become bigger in the profile. Black pepper, coriander, and lemon rind esters with light grapefruit juice notes, zesty citrus hops and typical Cascadian notes. Barnstormer is really well balanced with enough hops to satiate the hop heads but to still be in good balance with the esters.
Well there is nothing more interesting to me than a new beer from Kansas City, Missouri’s Boulevard Brewing and a beer named after one the most legendary lines in music. The Grateful Dead was one of the most prolific bands in the history of modern music. On their 1970 album American Beauty the words “What a long strange trip its been..” were spoke in the song Truckin’ and so was born the ultimate hippy yearbook quote. Long Strange Tripel is a 9.2% Belgian Tripel by style and was the third beer brewed in Boulevard’s Smokestack series of limited and small release brews.
Pouring out a beautiful colour of bright honeyed orange with a steady carbonation stream and a thick off white head. The head isn’t exactly sticky but certainly persists. The aroma is boisterous and overly estery with tons of citrus and spice notes filling the profile. A big coriander and lemon zest note with mild toasted malts, a bit of caramel and honey sweetness to offput the spice. Overall the aroma is that of a tripel, yeast heavy with tons of ester and malt notes. Rich and full bodied on the taste with a bit of lemon pledge and orange rind making appearances before the mild coriander spice. Floral and almost perfume notes appear as the glass warms towards room temperature. The sweetness is there but isn’t cloying and is actually in good proportion. The finish is warm and the 9.2% ABV is certainly noticable but falls hand in hand with mild bitterness and lingering ester notes. Sometimes tripels fall flat for me in the world of Belgian style brews and Boulevards Long Strange Tripel is no different. Although this tripel is expertly made and offers a great profile of Belgian esters, light toasted malts, mild hops and good balance I find this a bit unimpressive. My bias is in no way a reflection of the quality of this beer I simply don’t enjoy tripels as much as their Belgian brethren.
Wild Rose Brewery is often considered to be the old guard in a scene that is finally starting to flourish and expand. Opening in 1996 at a time when there were only two other “microbreweries” in Alberta (Alley Kat and Big Rock) Wild Rose has been taking a very Albertan approach for almost 20 years. Hef Nelson is a mixture of styles per say. A traditional German Hefeweizen with a unique and modern hop. Nelson Sauvin are a New Zealand hop strain that is known to produce a myriad of fruity notes akin to white wine. The similarity is so pronounced that the hop got its namesake from the Sauvignon Blanc that is produced in New Zealand’s Marlborough area. Hef Nelson is brewed touting a sessionable 5% ABV and a heavy 40 IBU’s (heavy for a hefeweizen).
Pouring out of the amazing 90’s esque bottle that brings back the memories of watching WWF (now WWE) in my friends basement is a cloudy, opaque bright straw yellow. A minor highlight of orange in the body with a thin almost soapy white head. The aroma is beautiful with tons of floral and fruity ester notes, banana, apple, cloves, coriander and the typical Nelson influenced stonefruit, mango, kiwi and gooseberries. Grapefruit and passionfruit are more apparent in the flavour profile. Mildly sweet malts, toasted wheat, bready notes, light honey and caramel. The fruit is the big show in this beer with tons of tropical notes sparring off against the hefeweizen yeast esters of clove, coriander, lemon rind and banana. Nice crispness on the finish with a moderate bitterness that doesn’t linger long. A nice contrast between the hefeweizen components and Nelson Sauvin hops leads to a nice balance in the profile and an extremely complex yet drinkable brew.
Calgary’s newest edition on the brewing scene is the nano startup of Dandy Brewing who have been releasing no holds barred bomber bottles for the last 10 months. Through a series of experimental and one off releases Dandy has released 7 unique and authentic beers. Bright Young Things is their first seasonal style and it is fashioned as a hoppy English Summer Ale that boasts a 5% ABV. Despite starting off with classic English styles such as an Oyster Stout and a Golden Brown Ale, Dandy has recently changed directions. By releasing a rauchbier, a sour and an upcoming Berliner Weisse the future of Dandy Brewing has an interesting and exciting road ahead as they continue filling a void in Alberta’s beer market. Personally I find the beers released to be very good both because of their flavour but also because of the originality of the styles themselves.
Bright Young Things pours a bright orange with hues of copper and straw in the glass. A light burst of carbonation towards the finger of frothy off white head. Aromatics cascade off the glass with notes of toasted bready malts, light citrus and grassy hops and a light floral note. Sweet up front with toasted caramel and biscuity malts; a very English style malt base. Notes of pear and apricot are subtle but present. Crisp and ultra refreshing style of beer that boasts the name of English Summer Ale very well. A fresh floral and grassy hop blend with a light estery note towards the finish. The finish itself isn’t overly bitter but has enough to showcase the profile. As I sip more the hops show off more spice notes than I ever saw in the aroma and first few sips. Initially this beer was a bit cut and dry but as it warms up and I enjoy more of it the complexity reveals itself. The mild bitterness builds up over time and lingers well into the aftertaste. Fruits are more present and sweeter in the middle of the profile. Very refreshing and crisp with a nice touch of bitterness to create a fantastic balance.